Quisimos mostrar, a través de esta historia nimia, la nobleza y grandeza de un pueblo indígena, que sigue debatiéndose entre sus raíces y la transculturización, entre la sobrevivencia y su perseverante empeño de mantener su esencia
Virginia Rioseco

Virginia Rioseco

 

Pehuenches de Trapa-Trapa Me está mirando la tristezaMe está mirando la tristezaMe está mirando bien la tristezaMucho me enoja la tristezaMucho me enoja la tristezaMe ha traído aire, vientoMe ha levantado el aireMucho me enoja la tristeza…TristezaMe ha traído gusanito, gusanitoEl aire, el viento, el aire. Santiago - Hay en este texto extraído de El Hablador, de Mario Vargas Llosa -relato que se centra en el corazón de una tribu del alto Urubamba , los machiguengas-, un cierto aire de penumbra y de tristeza, una cierta melancolía, que bien se podría trasladar kilómetros al sur del continente Latinoamericano, a Trapa-Trapa, a Butalelbum, en el este de Ralco, en el sur de Chile, al pueblo pehuenche.Si apuramos analogías, ellos, como esa tribu amazónica, tienen la imperiosa necesidad de relatar y, también, de echarse a andar buscando rumbos, inaugurando lugares que les permitan la subsistencia. No, no se trata de nómades. Se trata de un pueblo asentado en un territorio, pero que debe deambular para alimentar a sus animales y para encontrar su propio sustento: los piñones de las araucarias.Los estereotipos de nuestra cultura han hecho que etnias como la de los pehuenches se conozcan desde una serie de imágenes que encierra una mirada estanca, de postal inexistente. Es una imaginería antojadiza que los sitúa en un paraíso, un imaginario colectivo heredado de la Conquista, que es más un decorado que la realidad que ellos habitan. Si uno se despoja, aunque sólo sea un ejercicio, de esa mirada marcada por la cultura y va al viaje hacia el mundo pehuenche, abierto a encontrar sólo lo que el espacio y el tiempo de ellos depare, el acercamiento a su mundo será muy diferente de aquel estereotipo de maqueta.Con esta suerte de mirada inocente, es posible atravesar la frontera y encontrarse con ellos: los pehuenches reales.Y un paso más allá de Ralco es posible dejar el lastre que llevábamos y esa costra cultural se disuelve con el viento Puelche. La realidad golpea tanto como esta sonora ventisca. La dureza del paisaje, la aridez de la pobreza rural de nuestros campos cordilleranos y pre-cordilleranos y la fragilidad de la vida de esta etnia se evidencian sin alarde. Poco a poco se ingresa en otro espacio, en otro tiempo. Tiempo en el cual el pasado se entrecruza con el presente.Cartografía de una búsquedaA 510 kilómetros de la capital de Chile, Santiago, se encuentra la ciudad de Los Ángeles, capital, a su vez, de la Provincia del Bíobío. Desde ahí, en el Terminal Rural de la zona, en la calle Villagrán, salen a diario, dos veces al día, los buses Aránguiz con destino Trapa-Trapa: Trapa Bajo y Butalebum. Las micros (autobuses) se llenan de hombres y de mujeres cargados de sacos con diverso contenido: harina, forraje para los animales; canastos y pilgüas (bolsas tejidas) con mate, azúcar y levadura. Consumen poco, sólo lo necesario para complementar lo que el piñón les da.Bajar a Los Ángeles para los pehuenches es un evento donde ir al mercado a hacer las compras es el hito que marca su periplo. Viajan muy arreglados, se nota en la vestimenta: sombrero, manta de castilla en invierno, botas Los hombres de negro y las mujeres con coloridas pañoletas en la cabeza y delantal de percal.El microbus parte hacia la cordillera, indefectiblemente, con retraso. Las paradas para recoger y dejar pasajeros son innumerables.Desde Los Ángeles hasta Ralco, el viaje es como cualquiera otro: 64 kilómetros pavimentados y la consabida parada en Santa Bárbara, donde los pasajeros acostumbran comprar un “engañito” para los niños y niñas que esperan.Santa Bárbara al poco andar parece ser el último sitio, el borde de la civilización. Luego de vaivenes y de saltos, se llega a Ralco: un caserío con teléfono, control de Carabineros y punto. Ralco es el vértice de una bifurcación: hacia el norte a 57 kilómetros de nuestro destino, Trapa; hacia el sur, el valle del Bíobío, del Alto Bíobío y su controversial central hidroeléctrica Pangue.Desde ahí, la ruta sigue con más tropiezos: a la rueda que se pinchó, le siguen “los bolsos” que se cayeron en una curva y que se deben recoger. La micro sigue su curso apenas entre tanto inconveniente.Casi sin percatarnos el sonido empieza a cambiar: la lengua de “los otros” aparece con certeza, la sonoridad del lenguaje de los pehuenches da cuenta de un mundo diferente al que estamos invitados. Pasamos por Pitril, Cañicú, Queuco, Malla-Malla, Nitrao (las termas que con sus aguas minerales sanan y recuperan milagrosamente de todo al cuerpo enfermo). Bordeamos el río Queuco, nos empinamos por acantilados. Esperamos la copiosa vegetación que nunca aparece. Comprendemos que hasta en el paisaje hemos estereotipados a los mapuches y pehuenches.Trapa-Trapa es literalmente otro mundo. Lejos está la imagen de pletórica vegetación. Nada de paraíso.Vacaciones y nuestro viaje empiezaLlegamos donde nos espera la familia Vita. Vegetación cero. Sólo un ocre cajón de las renombradas “cordilleras” de los Vita Manquepi, una de las familias más conocidas de esta comunidad.Forman una comunidad de “raza pura” comenta orgulloso Pedro Vita, a cuya casa tenemos el honor de haber sido invitados.Al llegar se siente la presencia del Copahue, un volcán en los límites con Argentina que le da el nombre a esa preciada zona para los pehuenches. A lo lejos de nuestro sitio de encuentro divisamos tres construcciones. Una de piedra para resguardo de los animales; otra de madera, muy parecida a la imagen de estampa de una ruca y fogón, de libro de Historia; y, por último, otra de material ligero y pocos metros cuadrados, donde duerme la familia entera (diez personas más nosotros dos, los invitados).Empieza a atardecer, son las siete y el viaje ha sido duro. Doña María y Victorina, junto a sus hijos nos esperan a orillas del fogón. Tomamos mate y tortillas al rescoldo, en cenizas. Castellano y pehuenche al unísono. Luego el ulular del Puelche que atemoriza. Un aire de melancolía y de tristeza envuelve la oscuridad de la tarde. La oscuridad es implacable en la cordillera, sin pausa: un manto cubre, de pronto, todo el espacio y sin concesiones.En la noche el viento hace volar los techos. Temor de los forasteros (nosotros). Pero por fin amanece. Y junto con la luz, un frío de cuchillos que cala los huesos.Historias de pinadería y veranadaTrapa-Trapa es una zona marcada por los lazos familiares: los Pereira, los Vivanco, los Vita, los Manquepi, todos mezclados en raza y parentesco. En este lugar tan agreste, la familia, la constitución de grupos solidarios, es esencial para enfrentar la adversidad.En el verano se debe buscar pasto y alimentos para el invierno.La veranada es una institución en el mundo pehuenche, pues a esos sectores en la alta cordillera, llevan por meses estivales a pastar al ganado y luego los guardan en aquella construcción de piedras. Éstos, junto con los piñones, son la base de la subsistencia y del sustento de los pehuenches. Recolectar piñones para guarda es sinónimo de subsistencia.Por consiguiente los viajes a la pinadería es una práctica vital para este pueblo. Con ellos preparan la harina, los conservan en la tierra y los cocinan de variadas maneras. Preparan el licor: el chavi (mudai para los mapuches). Y de ese nombre han heredado su nombre. Pehuén: Pehuenches. Empieza la noche y la familia Vita se congrega en torno al fogón. Los recuerdos y las historias florecen. Cuenta uno y lo contradice otro, hasta que al final se compone el relato y coinciden en la hazaña.Las compras era más fácil hacerlas en Argentina. Valía la pena, si a Los Ángeles tardábamos 4 días y a la frontera sólo uno, a caballo, era claro adónde íbamos, comenta don Pedro Vita.Ahora siguen yendo a “La Argentina”, a comprar, a vender y a ver parientes.Aún en el fogón, y para acortar la noche, la conversa continúa animada Los pehuenches preservan su historia en la más absoluta oralidad. La conversación, el relato, es la mejor manera para afirmar su cultura, no sólo por el tributo a la lengua, sino también para preservar lazos familiares.Las historias de esa noche, mezclan pasado y presente y hacen guiños al futuro.La tragedia y el silencioLa tristeza provocada por una tragedia ya es asumida por los Vita. El recuerdo de múltiples eventos traumáticos forman parte de su paisaje. No se olvidan de sus muertos y sienten que la muerte es más cercana de ellos que de los huincas, los blancos, nosotros, los invitados. Pero no hacen más juicios y siguen su relato nocturno.Un joven cabalga en su caballo. Va solo y se desbarranca en un precipicio. Los vecinos miran este hecho y sequedad sentados, no hacen nada. Aquí en Butalebum, el asunto es de familias, de clanes, de grupos nucleares y el resto no les importa. Pareciera que no les alcanza el corazón para tantas tragedias bebidas durante su historia. Los Vita se estremecen con el solo recuerdo del hijo, del hermano, del primo, muerto. El duelo los acompañará siempre. El recuerdo también. El hermano, no.La cordillera tiene dos caras: hace años, otra hija de los Vita, cayó veinte metros en un desfiladero, en la veranada. Las condiciones eran aún más implacables, pero se salvó de milagro.En los pehuenches se entreteje fuerza y fragilidad, alternando en su vida episodios aciagos con otros más luminosos. De pronto, como cambiando el tema del dolor, Pedro dice: “Estoy orgulloso de mis hijos”. Él, no lo sabe, pero la fuerza de su descendencia se funda en una libertad a prueba de fuego otorgada por él mismo. Les regaló, además, sabiduría. La mayoría estudió, pudo conocer otras realidades y no perder sus raíces de las cuales se sienten orgullosos herederos. La lengua la conservan con firmeza. Sus historias la recuerdan y transmiten. Se sienten dignos de ser quienes son. Y ni en la capital lo olvidan. Son un pueblo con nombre y apellido, que mantiene sus raíces cueste lo que cueste.Antaño, cuando viajaban a Copahue realizaban un rito: daban vuelta entorno d euna piedra, “La Piedra del Indio”, ubicada más allá del límite con Argentina y le dejaban una ofrenda: una moneda, un pedazo de pan, una flor, lo que fuera. Luego se tomaban un trago del agua del volcán (el agualagrio), aquella que dicen sana todo tipo de males. Quizás esa manera de unirse con la tierra y con el agua, con la cordillera, con las estrellas es su secreto que los provee de una profunda fortaleza. Quizás. Pero lo que sí es cierto es que los Vita Manquepi, pehuenches de sangre y de alma, conjugan su fuerza con el empeño de no olvidar nunca quienes son, quienes fueron y de dónde vienen. Una historia la de una familia que, a la vez, representa a todo un pueblo. Los olvidados mapuches y pehuenches, la etnia que sobrevive con mucho esfuerzo y perseverancia, en este austral territorio.
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Virginia Rioseco, periodista y colaboradora de Revista Mensaje .

 


 
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